Permanent summer vacation.

We went to Black River Harbor on Tuesday.



We brought some beer...



Olkonen built a fire...





And we cooked salmon on the rocks.



Andrea worked her cooking magic.



And it turned out awesome.



That's pepper on the potato, not sand.



I'm going to miss the Great Lakes a lot. They have been central to our trip so far.



I hope everyone is having an excellent summer so far. Isn't the Midwest great?

I <3 Marquette.

We're in Ironwood, MI right now, but we stayed in some pretty nice places since our last update.

Marquette is incredible. It is like taking Madison Wisconsin, removing 80% of the cheesy hippy shit, putting it on the most beautiful chunk of Lake Superior shoreline, and surrounding it with moutainbike and XC skiing trails. There's also a harbor, college campus, rivers, waterfalls, ect. There are no jobs, however, so the population is sparse like most of the U.P..



The Ojibwa Casino. We blew five bucks in fifteen minutes.



We met Steve Lindberg on our way into town. He was campaigning for State Representative by going door to door on his bike. Nice guy.

Scott and Erica were our generous hosts. Not enough can be said about their hospitality. Buy them beers if ever your paths cross.

We ate and drank at the Vierling Restaurant & Harbor Brewery. They brew 10+ different beers on site, available to go in liter plastic bottles. I recommend their stout(toasty) and blueberry wheat ale, which tastes much better than it sounds. Marquette is famous for blueberry production and this stuff is better than most fruit beers.

Andy Gregg is a great guy. He is involved in the MTB culture in town and makes furniture out of bicycle wheels. You may have seen his work at the Handlebar or many Chicago bike shops. We had lunch and rode out to Little Presque Isle together. We also met Stella at Rustico Furniture- she is a class act.

We wanted to go to the Maritime Museum, but that will have to be next time.

What to do in the UP...

Find a river and hike down it. You are bound to find some waterfalls. We are currently in Marquette staying with our friends Scott and Erica. Last night they took us on a hike down the Dead River. It was amazingly beautiful as you can see here.

Here are exposed cedar roots along the trail.

THANKS ARE IN ORDER.

I just wanted to do a quick list of thanks to people who have helped us along the way so far....


Alee Peoples for many gifts and much support.
Margo, Steve, Connar, and Alexandar Powell, for an unexpected gift before departing.
The Riverside Bicycle shop in Oscoda MI for excellent advice.
The Woodland Louge and Resturaunt in Shingleton MI for lettings us camp out back behind the bar.

For the hospitality and food:
Virendra and Sherry Singh in Mattawan MI
Steve , Margie Scott, and Zak Drohn (my uncle, aunt and cousins) in HowellMI
My Mom and Dad
My sister Emily and Jason her fiance in Flint
Fred and Nancy Cross (my aunt and uncle) in Oquioc Mi

Thanks everyone for all you have done!

Taking a day off.

Munising has a great public library so I'm catching up on some internet time.

We just finished a shipwreck tour of the harbor. The guides were a charming brother and sister team: Captain Joe and Captain Kate. They showed us three different wooden ships from the 1800s.

The glass-bottom boat was pretty neat, but pictures don't do it justice.



Apparently wood does not decompose when submerged deep in cold fresh water. Salvage divers have retrieved billions of dollars worth of hardwood logs that were lost in nineteeth century timber operations.



This is the lighthouse on Grand Island. Grand Island has a healthy black bear population. They swim across the the channel from the mainland, which I think is mindblowing. Bears are both cute and massivly powerful, and the idea of a bear swimming is off my scale of great mental images. Next time I'm sitting on the el train and it's a hundred degrees out, I'll just think of a bear swimming through Lake Superior and the car will instantly be full of ice like one of those Coors commercials.



Happy trails cowpokes- we are riding to Marquette!

I seriously hate mosquitoes.

The UP is huge and desolate.

Everything is pretty, like this:



We have been eating smoked Whitefish every day. It is super tasty.



We rode through Seney yesterday, which is a massive chunk of forest with a straight line of highway scratched through it. The sun and flies were hellish and there was nothing to look at but pine trees. There are giant logging trucks, and we saw a pair of herons that were very majestic and prehistoric.

We ended up in an awesome small town called Shingleton, where the owner of the bar let us camp for free under some apple trees. Shingleton gets an A+ for hospitality.

We are in Munising right now and are about to go see some shipwrecks and giant cliffs.

If You Seek a Pleasant peninsula, Look Around You

This is Michigan's motto. Also is Great Lakes, Great Fun. We are defiantly enjoying the lake shores we have passed. Our very first day was spend riding down the coast of Lake Michigan. When we reached Bay City in Michigan, We hit Lake Huron for the first time and spent the next couple days riding along the coast of Huron on M23. Crossing the Mackinaw bridge, we spent a day riding along the northern coast of Lake Michigan along US 2 and now we have reached Munising and finally got our first glimpse of Lake Superior. Growing up in Ironwood, MI which is located 10 miles east of Lake Superior, I must say this is my favorite of the great lakes. It is huge, wild, and untamed. It is a very long ride through Michigan so it is taking us many weeks to complete this state.

Here I am before getting to Alpena in the lower peninsula. Once crossing we can say we are officially in the northland.

Here is a section of beach at my aunt and uncle's place near Roger's City, near the bridge.
This is a natural artesian spring flowing into Lake Huron and Ira getting excited about the bridge.

The U.P. is much less populated than the lower peninsula, so we have been able to pitch our camp for free. Two nights ago, we were camped out behind an abandoned motel and last night behind a bar in Shingleton. We have been trying not to eat out so much because after a couple of weeks of grilled cheese and fries everyday, we have gotten sick of fried foods. The smoked white fish I mentioned in my last post has lasted us for a couple of meals, and the protein is really appreciated by my body. We also have been drinking less alcohol as well suprisingly. After a long day on the road, we stopped by the bar we ended up crashing behind and had a couple of high lifes. It just gave us a headache. So I'm only gonna be drinking more than one beer or a swig of whiskey on off days.

We are having a rest day in Munising which is located just to the west of the Pictured Rocks state park. We went on a shipwreck tour, which I believe Ira is currently writing about. To give you more info, the lighthouse you saw in his post is from 1847 and was active until 1913. The picture of the ship was the Bermuda Schooner and was sunk in 1860. It was carrying 450 tons of high grade iron ore. Besides these highlights, we also enjoyed the rocky coast of Lake Superior It was very beautiful. This is how they got the name pictured rocks.

Tonight, we have a campsite right outside of town on the shore of Lake Superior. It is incredibly windy today, so I am glad we are not riding. We heard of a place which makes smoked fish sausage, so we may be munching on that for dinner. We also have to go to the laundromat. How exciting!!!

SAY YA TO DA U.P. EH!

We crossed the bridge two days ago and are now starting our Western route across the great U.P. The U.P. has many advantages such as miles of stark forest and wilderness, rivers with cascading waterfalls over glacial and volcanic rock, and miles and miles of amazingly beautiful lakeshore, especially along superior. however there are some drawbacks. the term small town takes on a whole new meaning here. Small town on the maps in the lower penninsula had a downtown with gas stations and resturuants etc. small towns on the map up here probably have a church and a snowmobile dealer. a gas station if you're lucky. and no high speed internet, so sorry once again no pictures. but we'll make it up to you in the next week or so but uploading a bunch at once. we rode down US 2 along the lake michigan shore line which was breathtaking. Sandy dunes and beautiful placid views of the water gently lapping the shore. At Little Hog Island, we rode north to meet up with M28 which we will take to Marquette. Last night we camped behind an abandoned motel. We had picked up some smoked white fish, cheese and crackers at one of the many little stores advertizing smoked fish and pasties (u.p. soul food) along US 2. So we had a nice little dinner feast. There is nothing like smoked lake superior white fish, if you've never had it, you are missing out big time! Although the camp site was free, we paid for it in bug bites. I am originally from the U.P. (Ironwood which we are heading toward) and I can say, I've never seen so many mosquitoes in my life. But if you read Ira's last post, I am sure you got that already. today we are using the internet and shower facillities in Newberry MI. Any of you who don't know me out there my full name is Andrea Newberry, so I am pretending this town was named for me. Riding down M28 we are seeing TONS of logging trucks. I've read of logs of people complaining of them riding thru the U.P. However, they've been respectful to us so far, giving us our space. Logging is one of the few industries still going up here, so you have to respect the trucks that pay many of the families bills up here. We head toward Munising and the Pictured Rocks. We will update more later. Oh, and never mind my bad spelling and crazy punctuation and capitilization. Ira keeps complaining to me, because he wants to keep the layout consistent, however, I don't have time to spell check etc. More later.

Attn: Birds and Fish

Your job is to eat mosquitoes! You have been slacking to the point of irreprehensiblity. If you don't chow down immediately I am getting in an earthmover and draining every last body of water in site. After that I will employ an insecticidal assault that will make Agent Orange look like candy and cause birth defect for many generations. Granted, we camped next to the biggest mosquito nest this side of Munising, but never the less: Get off your asses and pull some weight!

Andrea wants to marry a lighthouse keeper.

On Thursday we camped on Lake Huron for the first time. We stealth-camped right on the shore and it was amazing. The lake is huge on the horizon and feels like the edge of the earth. Cellphone coverage is patchy up here.

We've been riding 23 N, as Andrea mentioned. The are a lot of big trucks but the shoulder is generous.



The bike shop in Oscoda is owned by one of the greatest guys ever. He gave us the in on getting around town, which was a big help. His wife(?) was awesome too and took our picture for their wall of photos.

This is a picture of Andrea warning us about Zebra Mussels.



I love the Great Lakes so much. I don't think anyone on the East or West coast realizes how amazing they are. If things get tough I seriously think the Great Lakes States should form our own county. It would be a Mad Max stronghold around the fresh water and we would bring the world to it's knees. I guess we would have to make a deal with Canada.



There is so much nautical history around this area. I'll post later about the lighthouses, they are a facet of Michigan that I was fairly unaware of. Yesterday I saw a detailed chart of all the shipwrecks on the Great Lakes. Ships have be using and being claimed by these behemouths for quite some time.



Yaaar! Our next trip will be by galleon.

Alpena and UP

This is just a quick post with no pics unfortunatly just to update. We are just north of Roger's City and a day's ride away from the Mackinaw Bridge. Currently we are staying with my Nancy and Fred, my aunt and uncle. They have an AMAZING(!!!!!!) place here on lake huron. We were only going to stay the night, but have decided to stay another day. We arrived tired, sweaty and aching to have a swim in lake huron, an amazing dinner, a dip in their hot tub, and a good night's rest in a very comfortable bed. Later today we are going to go hiking up Black Mountain and have a look at the Ontiake Falls. I know for a fact I spelled that wrong. hggggggggnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn Their cat decided to add that last bit. The past couple of days we have been riding along highway 23 on the coast of Lake Huron, which i beautiful. We camped on the beach the night before we got here and fell asleep listening to the lapping of waves. It sounds all idyllic right now, however there are moments of serious pain as well. (8 hours on a saddle with my butt in flames!!!) Anyway. We head up north tomorrow and I am so excited about crossing the bridge. Ira's never seen it and I can't wait to get up north.

That's all for now. Pictures to follow.

I've been preparing for this trip a long time!!!

Weekend Update.

We were mentioned on the Gaper's Block webzine this week- thanks Naz! Also, we are flattered by all of the replies and comments. A week of lying by the pool and being pampered by Andrea's family has made me fat and lazy, it'll feel nice to be back in the saddle in a couple days.

Flintown!

Well, Ira and I have been in Flint now a couple of days. All along the way, after hearing we were headed toward Flint, people kept asking if we had our guns with us. I know it has a rough reputation, but Flint is actually a cool town. Run down of course, but not as crazy as people think. There are some rough neighborhoods, but a lot of the area is pretty rural, like where my parents live. Here is great photo of a yard near my parents house.


An old tree stump becomes a buried cowpoke. Awesome.

After first getting to Flint, my sister, her fiance, Jason, and some or our Flint friends were immediately off to the Frankenmouth Beer Fest in Frankenmouth MI.

My sister and I enjoying some beers!

They call this town little Bavaria, and because of their strong German heritage they love beer. Ira and I went last year to their Octoberfest and we highly recommend it!! Their beer fest also did not disappoint. Collected in one building were 50 different breweries all displaying their various brews for sample tasting. The breweries were mostly local Michigan and Great Lake states microbrews, but there were other national and a couple of international breweries present (Unibroue, Hofbrauhaus, Guinness, Newcastle, etc). Beside the general tasting area, they also had a small pole barn off to the side in which they were conducting two different classes in which we enthusiastically enrolled. Beer 101, and Beer and Sausage Pairing. Both were incredibly informative and delicious. The sausage in the second class was supplied by Kerns, a local sausage company. It was so good even Ira (everyone prepare yourselves) tried some. (Ira is a vegetarian for all you who don't know). Overall we had a great time. Lots of beer was drunk. Of course they only give you four ounces at time, but after 20 samples the ounces really begin to add up. My favorites were the Unibroue, a brewery from Quebec, Dragonmead Mircobrewery from Detroit, and Founders brewery. Bells was there of course, and we enjoyed drinking old favorites like Oberon. They were sampling their more common beers. Luckily though, we stopped by the brewery in Kalamazoo on our way here and enjoyed excellent hospitality and a few crazy brews which were excellent and not so common. Ira enjoying his Bells brew (in Kzoo) with our incredibly cool bartender, Wade.

After leaving the beer fest that night, we were still itchin' for some excitement so we meandered back to Flint to the Dakota Lounge for a little bit of bull riding. None of us were able to stay up long. Ira gave it a good try, but he kept complaining his Chrome biking knickers were slippery because he kept sliding the rear end of the bull before falling off. I was a bit surprised considering he purchased those pants a month ago and has worn them every day and not laundered them. They should have been gritty enough to hold him on.

We've spent most of this week just relaxing around my parents house along with a little bit of yard work. I don't know why, but I really think this picture of Ira with the weed whacker is a little sinister, but to most of you out there, it's just a guy with a weed whacker.

We helped my dad open the pool this week to get ready for some lounging on Memorial day weekend.

On Tuesday we hit the open road again. To the U.P.!!!!!

I should have packed my boots.

Our first five days of riding are officially over, giving us a week to recover in Flint. We rode rolling hills for the last few days and saw a lot of fields and rusted out farm implements.



There were nothing but small farms between Kalamazoo and Howell. It looked and smelled like the part of Wisconsin were I grew up.

What has eight wheels and is full of liquid shit?



This is the biggest tractor I've seen on the trip so far. I've heard they have titanic gps-guided machines for field work out on the Plains, but with it's six foot tall dualies in the front and rear, this manure hauler is the current title-holder. Imagine the torque this thing generates- sheer gearhead boner material.

The rural character of this place is pretty saturated. For long stretches, lone extended-cab three-quarter-ton pickups are the only traffic, and they are all caked in mud from the dirt roads and cornfields. The people are amazingly helpful when we get lost and ask for directions- quiet guys with burned-red faces, worn out camo and insulated flannel shirts, and stars 'n' stripes belt buckles, unexpectedly patient and interested in our trip. Their dogs are all either well-behaved or chained to something.



This place wasn't open when we rode through.



I'd like to think that this is some kind of local line-dancing hotspot.

We got soaked by rain on the way into Charlotte (pronounced shur-LOT) and ended up in a motel off the freeway. Watching the Ultimate Coyote Ugly Search on CMT was the perfect way to finish the day.




What up, Dukes of Hazzard? Everyone has some old car in the yard out here.



These people were neighbors.

This is the court house in Mason, which is a county seat. Historically this square was a meeting place for farmers and business people. Cool old architecture all around downtown Mason.



Not pictured but playing a key role are the cubic yards of fried food and gallons of cheap domestic beer that have fueled us through Southern Michigan. The little bars and cafes are great, but they make me very thankful for fruit and vegetables, and sometimes they make me want to puke french fries.



Andrea will post the rest of the S. Michigan story later...

Dunelands and Michigan Wine Country

We've been talking about this trip for a year, and you're all waiting for results! Hopefully our first week won't disappoint. It's been hard and exciting, and we took pictures.

The first night was at the Indiana Dunes at Beverly Shores. It rained a little and we ate a lot of eggs. The lake was beautiful the next morning.



The gas station where we bought the wood and eggs has the best softserv ice cream anywhere.

Here's the lake. All along the Indiana shore there are beautiful cottages. If you are rich and from Chicago, you may have one.



Wow, huge cooling tower. The mist made this look very ominous. It is some sort of power plant with water cascading out of the base. We got lost here and a guy in a pickup guided us down a dirt road to a village of pastel houses that looked like Loompa Land.



Andrea loves Michigan. This is the border. Shortly after we stopped for beers at the American Legion and watched a one-armed badass shoot pool. The tab was two fifty for both beers and they served us even though we are not vetrans.



This whole area was super pretty. There are so many old cottages and vacation homes. It is a little get-away for anyone who can afford it- I had fantasies about living in one of these places and zipping around in a antique British roadster. This fence is ancient and the house behind it is almost too far back to see.



We've been camping out for the past three nights. This is one of the nice moments. The a raccoon stole our trailmix this night and we fought over how I lost Andrea's flashlight.



I had no idea that Michigan had so many vineyards. It looks like France or something, there are some hilltops where grape vines are all you can see in every direction. It makes my feel justified in wearing my euro cycling cap.



This place was full of old people and the menu was super cheap. The party at the rear table were talking about all of the animals they had seen, and what was required to kill them. Standard small town fair, growing up in Northern Wisconsin I am used to this, except these old ladies were talking about totally innocuous creatures like squirrels, and the way to take care of them was "find a guy who's got a gun". I had an awesome chocolate malt that cost a dollar twenty-five.



I'm smiling cause there's no rain, I'm surrounded by grape vines, and I've only been riding thirty miles so my shoulders don't feel like someone's been stabbing them with a screwdriver yet. We've been averaging sixty mile days, which some people may think is pansy, but look at all of the stuff we are carrying. Try putting all of the stuff in you car, bedroom, dresser, and kitchen in a bag and dragging it up hills. It's actually more fun than it sounds.



Cheers, we will be in Flint soon and you will get another update!

The clock is ticking...

It's been a busy and stressfull week, but we have stayed our course and are leaving Saturday morning. Not much time to post right now, but things are stampedeing toward the critical point were we must have our apartment empty and be ready to leave. Depending on the time, our next post may be from the road.

Andrea Checking In...

Hello, this is Andrea checking in. People have been wondering where I was and why I haven't posted yet. The answer is connected with a clarification and correction I feel needs to be made on Ira's previous posts. In the past posts where he speaks of all the work "we" have been doing packing etc, replace the "we" with "Andrea" and you have it about right. I haven't had a chance to post because while Ira has been putzing on the computer, I have been the one doing all the organizing.
Just joking, Ira. The real reason is I am not the best writer in the world and am slightly afraid of this whole new blogging world. To warn you all, I do not spell very well either. All you english majors can go crazy with your red pens. Anyhow, just felt like I needed to get that out of the way.

The past couple of weeks have been strange indeed. We've been planning this trip for the past year and it is very surreal to be finally getting so close to our goal. I have been done with work for the past week and a half. Friday, April 21 was my last day.
Here are two pictures of my last day. I am unemployed in the lower picture. It felt good to be done with work. However, though I have no set schedule or pay check, I am still doing a lot of work at home. You can see from Ira's previous logs, packing and moving is always busy. Especially when you have Uhaul putting crinks in the works. The moving is done, but now we must get ready for our apartment sale this weekend. Then cleaning the apartment to get our security deposit back. And then... the road.

Ira's logs previously have been mostly about our gear. This has probably been one of the most difficult aspects of this trip particularly for myself. Finding the right gear for such a prolonged trip is very difficult. When you add my indecisive yet exacting nature with the fact finding cycling gear for women is much more difficult then for men, it has become next to impossible. However, we are starting to get there. The most difficult items to decide on were shoes, a saddle, jerseys, shorts and of course a swim suit. So reviewing that list, I realize, I am a total girl. The two things I care most about are the comfort of my butt and privates and my fashion asthetic on the bike. Well so be it. I won't go into description of all my gear, but I am sure you are all wondering most about the most important piece of gear I mentioned above, which would be my swimsuit. After trying on many swimsuits which made me look like a beached whale in spandex, I found this wonderful little number off the Esther Williams website.
I got a red and white polka dot fabric instead of the floral print. It's great. The bottoms come with a built in girddle! You've got the love the 50's designs. But believe it or not, the suit is incredibly comfortable! Hopefully I will have lots of excusses of using it.

Well, enough prattling. I need to get back to organizing my sale. More later.

In this post you can see our empty living room...

We moved all of our stuff on Sunday morning, in the rain. It was so wet that I started to notice fish swimming through the gutters as I carried boxes across the street to the U-Haul. By the time I had been working for a couple hours, there were large sea mamals such seals and manatees lined up on the sidewalk watching the progress. It was seriously that wet- requiring cardboard on the floors and plastic wrapped around every box.

Renting the U-Haul truck was a catastrophy, due to their thouroughly poor job of documenting our reservation. Andrea called a week before we needed the truck, they assured her that it would be ready, and then it was not. They even lied to cover their tracks. This was revealed by the exasperated owner of our storage space, who arranged for us to use the truck overnight, provided that we return it in the morning when they opened so that the people who now had our original reservation could use it. We started loading at 6:30 AM and finished at 11:30 AM, which actually turned out fine.

Compare this photo to the previous post:



It feels very strange to have everything gone.

Twelve more days and we will be on the road.