Saturday, March 17, 2007

Plantations

After going further inland, we are beginning to see some of Louisiana's older architecture which has luckily been left alone from the storms.





The swamp and Ira, patron saint of all turtles



We've been riding through the wetlands for the past couple of days and have seen a range of amazing wildlife. We've seen gators, snakes, turtles, and tons of water birds.



We've also been intruduced to Nutria, which look like ROUS (rodents of unsual size). They look like rats, but are bigger than a household cat.



I have also come to find out a new fact about Ira. He is the shepherd of turtles. The roads are littered with turtle roadkill, which looks very different then regular roadkill. Regular roadkill looks like a pile of flesh, soft blobs on the streetside. Turtle roadkill is very angular because of the broken shell, while pink guts spilling in all directions. This bothers Ira very much. He makes us stop about 4 or 5 times a day to taxi a mid-road turtle across to safty.


Here Ira is trying to save a snapping turtle which was responding by trying to snap off his fingers. He is using the bottle to try and get it to pull its head in. It didn't want anything to do with this shepherd. He had to leave this one on the road.



There is the old Chinese saying that if you save someone's life, their life becomes your responsibility. Ira is currently responsible for about 20 little turtle lives, and the numbers are growing everyday.

hurricanes, gators, fema and fun

So, when you heard from us last, we were feeling slightly down and out. We had been wet for multiple days straight and the areas we were going through were slightly depressing. Then we came about the Grand Chanier library. The women there gave us cookies, punch and cheer. When we were getting ready to leave they told us they had called their friend "Miss Frankie". She had an extra FEMA trailor she was willing to lend us for the night. Everything got brighter from there out. We rolled over to Miss Frankie's. She got us set up in the extra trailer and invited us over to visit when we felt comfortable.



Ira and I washed up and went over avisitin. Frankie and her husband Guy immediatly offered us some beer and snacks as we sat down to discuss the pertinent issues; our bike trip and hurricane Rita. Cameron Parish, which is the largest and most sparsly populated parish in Louisana,was totally devistated by hurricane Rita. They complained it didn't get as much press as Catriana, because it affected less people. However, almost everyone in the parish lost almost everything. Total devistation could be seen everywhere. There are barely any buildings left standing. Everyone is living in trailers brought in after the storm. They felt because they recieved less press coverage, they were virtually ignored when it came to federal aid. Beside that no one was recieving any insurance money. It's a real mess down here. There is no overall hurricane insurance, you need flood insurance and wind insurance. No one is recieving any money because when people file a claim with the flood insurance, they're told it isn't covered because it's actually damage caused by the winds. When they try to file for Wind damage, they are told it's water damage. Here the real enemy seems to be the greedy insurance companies. Left to fend for themselves, the people who have money to repair their houses are still working on them, two years later. While most are left trying to finagle more time with Fema to keep the trailers. Frankie joked they were true Cajuns, they owned two boats and no houses.

"Before the storm" is a constant phrase you hear down here. They speak of before in whistful terms. Now they are all force into a reality of rebuilding what little the have left and replacing what was lost to recreate the lives they once had. Everyone down here seems pretty stoic about the whole stituation though. They understand if you live down here, the storms come with the package. The true resentment comes into play when they talk about the betrayal they feel from the insurance companies which was to be their security blanket. Guy spoke of a WWII veteran he was friends with who broke down in tears in a conversation about his insurance situation. He lost his house as well as his business and all his equipment during the storm. When he filed his insurances claims he was turned down on all of them. He said, he would be ok with it, if he could be refunded every premium he had been religously paying over the past 40 years.

While we chatted, Frankie was busy cookin up some fresh shrimp they had just caught in the river behind their house. They spoke of all the amazing seafood which is just within reach of their house, shrimp, crawdads, crabs etc. Guy goes offshore fishing where he catches red snapper and other large fish i can't remember the names of. They bragged before the storm they had multiple chest freezers full of seafood. They have tons of aligators in the river across the street. Frankie was telling us of the pet gator she had when she was a kid. Her dad would go out with the scraps of shrip and crab, "slappin the mud" to get Timmy's attention. They finally had to let him go when he got over 5 ft long, because he was beginning to get a little dangerous.

The next morning, Frankie sent us off not only well rested, but with bags overflowing with foodstuffs she had been given after the storm. We were treated wtih true southern hospitality and generosity.


I feel very well rested and dry after getting rained on in the tent for the past three nights.


Here is Ira and Miss Frankie.

Frankie even called up her mama "Miss Lou" who owned Chateau Vermillian, a bed and breakfast 60 miles up the road and arranged for us to stay the night with her. "I'll just tell her y'all are too poor to pay any money". Miss Lou was as gracious and fun as her daughter. We had fun staying up chatting. She gave us doses of her "medicine", which I was quite happy to partake of since scotch is one of my very favorite drinks.


Miss Lou and myself.

Situations like these are what makes this trip so worth while. I love meeting new people, and meeting local people is the best way to have an authentic experience.

Wednesday, March 14, 2007

being on the beach makes you contemplate your existance




what does it all mean?

beach resort for paranoid militia extremists



its bulletproof and if it floods, we believe it will float.

too many blogs.

I recently joined myspace, which i avoided for a long time. I finally broke down and now I'm addicted which happens to everyone i guess. Anyhow, i started a myspace blog and I've been writting posts for each. Ira was commenting on the fact I've been putting more of the funny pics on that one, and being too serious on this one. I was trying to do different things with each, but it is true. I want this site to be honest and fun as well. So for the very few of you who may read my other blog, I appologize if you see some repitions.

Louisiana is wet

So many waterfowl everywhere. We've been seeing tons of cranes, pelicans, cormorants, birds with curved beaks I don't know what they're called. Its really great. Our friend Marian, who is from Texas, and her father are really into birding. This makes sense, seeing all the different species to be found down here.



We're in Louisiana now. The weather here is very fickel. We camped on the beach off the side of the road.



it rained on us all night, and then cleared up this morning. Then by midafternoon it was pouring again. Ira and I parked it under an overhang of an abandonded gas station (Damaged by hurricane Rita) to wait out the downpour. We waited over an hour and realized we should get back on the road, rain or no rain.



We've been seeing a lot of hurricane damage along the way. The first town we passed through was Holly Beach. It was totally gone. It is now made up of a few trailers and mobile homes.




We've ended up at a Library in Grand Chenier during their St. Patties party. They fed us green cookies and punch. So the day is ending well.

Down and out on the Gulf.

"RITA SUCKS- NO, SHE BLEW. HOPE YOUR[sic] INSURED!"

This was spraypainted on a huge rusty oil tank resting on it's side between Highway 82 and the Gulf Shore beach. The road leading into Cameron Parish, LA is barely two lanes and there's not a foot of it not bordered by trash from Hurricane Rita. Complete towns were reduced to foundations in 2005 and are still mostly trashed, with people living in Campers and trailers on leveled lots. It's obvious most of this Parish wasn't insured because ninety percent has not been rebuilt. It's hard not to get emotional riding though miles of peoples lives strewn though water-filled ditches. Everything is out there, from lamps to lawnmowers to the contents of china cabinets.





Rain down here feels like someone turned on a gigantic shower head and then left for a month vacation. It blasts down at full intensity for hours on end, and we just spent the day riding in it.

This isn't anything like the last part of the ride. The scenery alternates between grim and boring and the weather sucks. Like Texas, Louisianans have been kind and welcoming to us, but unlike the West, this isn't a place people go on vacation. Admittedly, the isolated beaches are beautiful. Highway 82 feels more like the frontier than anything out West, probably a combination of the hurricane damage and most of the residents being roughnecks who work the offshore oilrigs. Andrea quickly noticed that she was the only woman on the Cameron Ferry and also in the packed Hurricane Cafe in town, other than the women behind the counter. I don't want to sound ungrateful, Louisiana, but if things don't change, I'd like to get out of here as soon as possible.

Tuesday, March 13, 2007

We're headed into coastal Louisiana...

We don't expect to see many towns in the next few days, so wish us luck!

Monday, March 12, 2007

footprints on the boardwalk

Talkin' roadkill...

Is the Texas Gulf really boring enough that I'm posting about roadkill? I've actually always been fascinated, but the fact it's flat and and most of the scenery is repetitive has focused more attention on the roadside abattoir. Each region has it's own flavor: we saw young moose in the Idaho panhandle, and there were rattlesnakes all over Wyoming and South Dakota. I don't take pictures, but please use your imagination.

Texas highlights:

Armadillo - I've never seen one in the wild, but there was a fresh one on the yellow line the other day. Reminds me of a Jim Hightower book.

Feral Hogs - Two so far, both late-on in decomposition. One a boar with tusks.

Rattle Snakes - I thought it was a palm branch this morning because it was laying in a puddle by the beach. Nearly four feet long.

Deer - Not that exciting unless you're from the city, but these are everywhere. I found a cool two-point antler by the roadside and it's strapped to my rack.

Birds - Dead vultures are meta roadkill. I wonder if they eat each other? Lots of Terns by the Gulf, and no pelicans so far which is nice because they are my new favorite bird.

Skunks - A live one was poking around our campsite a few nights ago, but many others are not as lucky.

Turtles - I helped a big box turtle cross the road. It seems wrong when these guys get smooshed by some teenager in a truck just off the assembly line because they can live to be over a hundred years old and deserve respect.

sleepin on the beach is very messy

Well, we've been camping on the beach a lot lately. The sand here on the gulf is insideous. it gets everywhere! it is so fine, it is hard to wipe off. here are a couple more nights on the road.

Padre Island


Lighthouse beach campground, Port Lavaca, TX.


Johnny and Angie let us camp on their property on Payton Creek. We were here on sat. night. the locals like to haul ass down this waterway in their boats for sat. night fun. it looked fun, everyone waved at us, but no one offered us a ride. oh well.



sunset on payton creek, Wadsworth, TX



we spent last night here, oh my god. we got attacked with huge rain pellets for 7 hours straight. i have never experienced a downpour like this before, and in a tent. everything was wet. we were trying to laugh about it, but it was one of those premptive laughts. the kind you know you'll feel later, but deffinitly not in the moment.

i didn't get a shot of the tent because it was dark when we got it up and it was all we could do taking it down to keep from wanting to just head to the nearest airport.



We spent last night with Helen and Phillip down here in Galveston. It was so nice to be in a house, to do laundry and be dry. This bed was super comfortable, like sleeping on clouds. It was just what I needed!

Thursday, March 08, 2007

sunset on the gulf and a bird

here are some pics i like.




were we've been staying

here are some pics of our lodgings so far.

second night, at will's house. Austin, TX



day three, at haleh's house. Austin, TX


Day 4 and 5, Emily's parents Jimmy and Linda's house. Wimberley TX


Day six: city park in Stockdale, TX


Day seven: city park in Beeville, TX


Day eight: on causeway, Arnasas Pass, TX (on the Gulf)


So far no money has been spent on lodging. people in texas are realy nice!

Wednesday, March 07, 2007

This feels the way I remember, although flatter.

We've been riding into the wind for the last three days straight. My face is burned, my legs feel like water, and I'm happy to have finally reached the Gulf of Mexico.

Texans have overwhelming state pride, there must be a law here that you can't display a U.S. flag without a Texas flag. I don't mind at all because these are the friendliest people we've met. This is the first time that every town has let us camp in their park, and people go out of their way to help out. All of the signs say "State Law" on the bottom, as if no one gave two shits about the Federal ones.

I can't stop salivating at the smell of Pecan smoke, thanks to the mind-blowing barbeque served up by our friend Emily's family. Top-notch folks in every way. I've been dreaming up ways of convincing them to adopt me ever since we left their place in Wimberly. We stayed two nights and Emily drove us to San Antonio to see the Alamo. We left with our spiritual batteries charged, ready to face anything the road could throw at us.

Speaking of which: this wind. Please stop blowing, you are making me want to die. The sunburn is ok, it just makes me look stupid, which I can handle. Once again, note to the wind: Stop.

Saturday, March 03, 2007

"What it do?"

Austin has great rap radio. I'm stoked about being in the durrty south- everything sounds like a Swisha House mixtape. One of our new friends in Austin even told us that she just ordered a grill.

The public radio station, KUT, is high quality as well. I wish we had more time to soak up the culture, but it feels neccesary to be back on the bikes and putting miles behind us.

Friday, March 02, 2007

so we put the bikes together yesturday. it is strange, i thought it would be wierd to get back on them. get used to riding loaded bikes (which are really wobbly at first until you get used to it) but ira and i were both commenting it felt totally normal.







sorry about the reflectors, they make it really hard to take pictures.

So Ira and I are both really anxious to get on the road but we feel like we should hang out here for a couple of days to check out the city. Last night we went over to South Congress where they were having "first thursday" which they have every month. Its like a sidewalk arts and crafts thing with street music and food. We got these amazing hickory smoked turkey legs for $1 a piece, and they were huge!! I felt very primal knawing off the bone. I think Ira just felt very masculine.



We checked out the thrift, antique and chotchke places up and down the strip and ira had to drag me out of a couple because i was bound and determined on spending money i shouldn't on a set of 8 square dancing high ball glasses. (i collect glasses ok, its my vice). Then he was dragging me out of the boot shop. It was very clear I couldn't get a pair tho at $350 and up.



more later.

Wednesday, February 28, 2007

The stars at night...

Ok, y'all, we made it. We got into Austin TX today at 5:05 p.m.

Our day started at 8:00 a.m. We had all our baggage ready.



I ordered the minivan cab for 10 a.m. to get us to midway airport. Me, being a neurotic worry wart, I scheduled it for 4 hours before our flight was to leave to make up for any problems we might encounter of not fitting our stuff in. It all fit, luckily.





It only took us 30 minutes to get to the airport, so we were there 3 1/2 hours early. Well, better to be early then late.



Ira is feelin the stress as we wait to check in our mountain of baggage. I went from a key chain with tons of keys, my parents house, my sister's house, my aunts house, andy's house (all the places I've been staying) and keys to my parents car to only one key: my bike lock. Less keys, less responsibilities.



I kept saying, if we can just get on the plane, I'll be fine. I'm feeling pretty good here.



We got to Austin, and Walt, someone we hooked up with off the warm showers list, came and picked us up with his truck. We then went out to dinner at the Third Base which is a great new bar Walt's son Michael opened just three weeks ago. It was great food and packed. We then came back to his house where we have been supplied with great digs for the night.



So as you can see, we're back on the road and roughin it.

The stars at night are big and bright (at least the capitol building deffinitly is) deep in the heart of Texas.

Tuesday, February 27, 2007

jumping off the cliff, a second time

Andrea checking in again. Well, sorry all for being so incommunicado for the past three months. I left off here, telling you all about how I was trying to reintegrate myself into a normal life again. I was living in Flint, staying with my parents working a temporary holiday job. I wish I could tell you everything went well while I was there, but that would not be entirely true. This past couple of months has brought on a lot of emotional turmoil and concepts for contemplation. To be brief, I have been struggling with a lot of issues of self identity.

I have come to realize I define myself largely by what I "do". I wasn't doing much while in Flint. Don't get me wrong, I really like Flint, I think it is an awesome town. I just wasn't in a position of doing much, only working part time. I started to get depressed and started doing even less then before. Living with your parents after a long time away from home is difficult. I truly wanted to be a good citizen but slowly started to fade into old patterns of lazing around the house and not helping out because I didn't absolutly have to. I realize, I need a structured life to keep me feeling positive. I need to move forward not dangle in some temporary thing. I value work, and I value supporting yourself. I wasn't really doing this while in Michigan and it took it's toll.

I knew embarking on this adventure, there would be hard times. I like being comfortable, I have always liked having my spot with all my stuff. I am not zen, I can't just give up everything and be content. (that's why everything is in storage.) I was concerned I wasn't going to like the transient life, yet was surprised at how well I felt I was coping with the first part of being on the road. It was when we stopped everything came into focus. Being around others who are so settled in their lives, and not really being settled in my own life was hard. I am a control freak therefore I like to have control over my environment, and this just hasn't been possible lately. I've been feeling lost and afraid. I also have been suffering from panic attacks that leave me paralyzed with fear of "are we doing the right thing?", "should I just quit all this and go back to a regular life...will that get rid of this fear?" The fear and panic I feel seem slightly irrational when looked at from the outside. My friends say, well, you know, you are going back on the road soon, so why are you getting stressed out about it. But what if it doesn't go away, I ask. Lately the fear has been all consuming, almost to the point of making me want to quit this trip. This trip which has been my dream for so long.

I'm no quitter though. I have to move forward. It is part of how I define myself. I have been feeling lost, and quite honestly I don't know if I can make it another six months on the road without having a breakdown. But I'm not quitting without trying. The problem with saying you want to have an experience that will change your life is, it does change your life. Things change, and you have to deal with that...the good and the bad. Its not like things change, the clouds open up, God comes out and says "my child, you have been strong and brave, you will lead a very successful life with no problems from here on out." No. Things have changed but I'm not sure how. All I know is, I feel differently and I need to redefine myself. This is uncomfortable, but so necessary. I've been working on allowing the panic to move through me, but not take over. I'm working on allowing myself to feel uncomfortable in my own skin. I'm trying to deal with the concept life is out of my control and this is ok. These issues have almost been harder if not as hard as climbing a mountain pass or sleeping in a cold damp sleeping bag during a horrific rainstorm or getting dehydrated and sunburnt from riding through 100 degree weather.

That's all part of the journey. I knew it was going to be hard, I guess I just didn't know what aspects were going to be hard and how they were going to affect me. Ira and I have been talking about this blog. People who have kept reading have commented on how it hasn't been so positive lately. But this is the true experience. Its so important to see the struggle, not just the physical but emotion and psychological struggle which is so integral to this. Hard times are necessary to appriciate the good ones. I know this all may sound trite, but you know some times you have too look in the mirror and say

I'm good enough, I'm smart enough, and gosh darnit people like me.

anyhow, enough psycho babble. I just felt, I couldn't move on with this blog without telling you what I've been going through. So the whole picture could be seen and understood.

Thanks for all of you who have supported us, it means everything. Tomorrow we're off to Texas to do it again. Getting ready to jump, can't think about it. Just have to get a running start and go.

Sunday, February 25, 2007

Blizzard Party 2K7

Chicago kids are crazy when it comes to extreme weather. Half-way through our going-away party last night I stepped out on the front porch and saw no less than twelve bikes locked to the front gate, all coated in ice, sleet, and snow. Some of our first guests rode fourteen miles before arriving. Andrea and I were floored by how many people braved the storm to give us a send-off.



Find yourself in the party pictures.

We're going to miss everyone so much over the upcoming months, and a part of me wants to just stay here in the comfort of all that is familiar.

Those of you who couldn't make the party, we'll be back before you know it. Stay in touch and we'll keep writing and taking pictures for you.

Saturday, February 24, 2007

Late hours at the bike shop.

I started fixing the bikes yesterday. They're covered with dirt from all over the West.

So far, Andrea's has new handlebars because she crashed on Vancouver Island. She's also getting a new chain, a fancy new old-stock Suntour freewheel, and all of her bearings repacked. Can you smell the fresh grease?

For added olfactory pleasure, Andrea's bike box came with dirty clothes from three months ago!

I'm going to need to fix my rear fender, which was smashed when the wheel can loose in Portland, and jury-rigged since then. There's also the business of my drive-train clicking, probably needing new parts. All of this needs to happen in the next three days, and I admit I'm panicking.

The best solution is obviously to party tonight and drink whiskey, which we will do.

Tuesday, February 20, 2007

I bought plane tickets yesterday.

We're flying to Austin on February 28th. Hello warm weather! There's a lot of work to be done in the next week. I'll be tuning the bikes, putting my things back in storage, and tying up loose ends.

Tuesday, February 13, 2007

Snopocalypse

Despite blizzard warnings throughout Cook County...



Andrea and I still went on a date tonight! Everyone is driving like they are crazy due to multiple inches of snow on the streets. There are sirens ever two seconds and the visibility is less than a block- how romantic!

Monday, February 12, 2007

I think Ta-da List by 37signals is pretty neat. I'm using it to keep track of our countdown to departure and everything else in my life that requires order.

Andrea is back in Chicago and we've been doing some fun stuff, like ice skating and going out to eat. She brought the camera with her, so look out for photos soon.

Our going-away party will be on the 24th. Roughly a week after is the projected beginning of our Gulf Coast ride.

Saturday, February 03, 2007

There's no place like a sinking ship to re-evaluate your career as a pirate.

January has been a shitty month. It started out with a friend being killed in a car accident (age 27, hit by a drunk driver on Christmas Eve), and didn't improve. Andrea has been living with her family in Flint for the past two months. Long distance relationships work for some people, but between the physical separation and the unresolved stress from five months of touring, ours has been tense and miserable. I'm not ready to go into details, but I've seriously questioned whether I want to spend another five months on the road, and beyond that, if Andrea and I have what it takes to work together as a team at all.

It's a new month though, and time for a re-evaluation of plans, goals, and my view of life in general. The transition from one mode of life to another has never been hard for me, but I always catch myself swept up in things and carried away with day-to-day affairs before I've actually come to terms with the fact there's been a change. I've been working for the last two months with blinders on, saving money, sleeping early, and losing contact with everyone. I've been living entirely for the future, for the goal of getting back on tour, but completely ignoring actual life around me. BAD IDEA! When it became obvious that things between Andrea and I were not working out, my priorities changed. I've been in better contact with friends, who are solidly supportive and loyal, and I'm cutting myself more slack in the leisure department. If there's nothing about your life that you can brag about, and you're living for something that's not making you happy, things have gotta change. Taking care of the people who care about you is worth whatever time and money it costs, because you never know when you're gonna be crying in your beer.

I'm not going to keep you in suspense... The tour is still on. Andrea and I are spending more time on the phone, talking things out, and she's moving back to Chicago in a week. We're planning to leave for Austin, Texas at the end of February. I'll post pictures of the going-away party.

Saturday, December 30, 2006

Happy Holidays - It's almost Tour2k7!



We celebrated Xmas in Flint, MI with Andrea's family. That's Emmit in the picture, he's Andrea's sister's new puppy. We hope you all are having a fun and safe holiday season, and look forward to seeing everyone soon.

I got a mapping GPS for Christmas this year, to use on the second half of our trip. It is WASS enabled and I just loaded it with a bunch of detailed maps, so I'm doubtlessly going to be spending time outdoors soon. Maybe I'll track down a geocache or two.

Monday, December 18, 2006

The hardest part of touring.

It's not the physical pain or emotional distress. It's not the frustration of trashing your drive train on the open road, a hundred and fifty miles from nowhere. It's not the bears, raccoons, squirrels, or any other animal that steals your food. Same for the sun, rain, and cold. The most frustrating, discouraging, and menial aspect of this trip is the money-saving part. It's nice to be in the city if you have late-night oil to burn and money to blow on drinks, food, music, and endless entertainment. When you're socking all of your cash away for another five months of touring, these temptations make you feel depressed, lousy, and wishing you were living in some little snowbound cabin in the North Woods, where the California Clipper, the Maproom, Stella's, the Innertown, and the handful of good friends who all deserve proper attention at the forementioned establishments were safely out of range. I've started a disgusting coffee-drinking habit because it's the only way i can socialize on my self-imposed budget. For the first time in years I've gone for a week without resting my elbows on one of Chicago's heavily lacquered bars.

In times like these it's crucial not to lose sight of goals. Being ground to a bloody pulp by workweeks with no reward must be balanced against something tangible, so I find myself filling a notebook with lists and plans for the next few months, and looking back through our photos and my journals from the road. I'm organizing my gear, going through checklists, and reading maps at the Harold Washington Library. I'm forcing myself to stop in the middle of the day and visualize my time in the city as an island that I'll be rescued from in a matter of months, and to remember that the rescue ship with be loaded down with the bounty of freedom on the open road, and that the air will be clear and sweet like the sea, and not at all cold like Chicago winters.

Sunday, December 03, 2006

Getting patriotic about snow.

Most of my life right now is focused on work and winter. I've returned to my job at the help desk and am attached to a computer during daylight hours. It feels good to be welcomed back and to be indoors as temperatures dip into the teens. This is a great time to ask me questions that require long written answers, or to keep my company on instant messenger.



We got our first big snow this week, officially announcing the start of winter. I'm a steadfast bicycle commuter, even when snot freezes to my scarf and I have to wear long underwear. I get smug satisfaction from harsh weather because it culls the weak from an otherwise pampered flock of urbanites. We are Chicagoans and will go to work in any weather goddammit! Bring on the black slush, ice, and frigid blasts of lake-effect snow, we will wrap ourselves in layers, stand atop snow-drifts, wade through frozen slop, and make it to the office on time.

Here are more snow pictures.

The other thing that keeps me going is the resumption of our tour in February. North Padre Island is one of the first places on the list.